GQ (Again): Here's What I Actually Said
by Matthew Dehaty
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“Smarter than a tee, and less formal than a shirt.”
Ten words. From an interview that ran to several hundred. That's how features work - a writer has an argument to make, you're one of several voices, and the edit is ruthless. Fair enough. But GQ is a broad audience, and the people who read that piece aren't necessarily the people who need to understand why Old Novo exists, or what we're actually trying to build. So here's the full interview, as it was sent.
Why did you start Old Novo?
Old Novo exists because rugby deserves better than it's been given. The game still talks about tradition, values, fellowship - but the clothing around the sport had become lazy and generic. Either match replica kit, or “rugby lad” merch. Nothing in between. Nothing with taste.
Old Novo sits in that gap. I built the company to treat rugby culture with the same respect fashion gives golf, tennis, football, running and basketball - to build garments you'd actually wear away from the club, not just to training or the pub.
The subplot, for me, is to prove something serious can come out of the North East. There's more than just football up here.
The name comes from my school, where I was first introduced to the game. An Old Novocastrian is the name for former pupils of the Royal Grammar School, Newcastle. I love the mix of Old and Novo - Latin for New. I'm working on a jersey release with the school this summer that tells the story of the school's 500 year history - the same project behind our RG Jersey.
Simply put: Old Novo exists because no one else was building it the way it should be built. I felt that as someone who played the sport for 20 years, and having spent 20 years in the apparel industry. If I wasn't going to do it, no one was.
What does Old Novo do best?
We're aiming to make the best rugby jerseys in the world. That's the mission for the next year at least.
Old = respect for the game, culture, and values. I've been in and around the sport for 30+ years.
Novo = built for today. Contemporary fits and styling, positioned so that current and former players are excited to wear the product outside of match day.
What do you think of big fashion companies making rugby shirts?
Fashion has appropriated the rugby jersey recently, and I find it frustrating seeing rugby shirts on the high street while the sport itself does very little with the moment.
There are brands that do an exquisite job of respecting the sport, the teams, and the culture - J.Press, Rowing Blazers, Gant come to mind immediately. I've discovered a few lesser known ones doing a stellar job too, Sports d'Époque in France, for one.
In short: I'm all for it, with conditions. If they treat rugby like a design archive with context, great - they bring scale, visibility, and fresh eyes to a sport that needs it. But most big brands will miss the details that actually make a rugby shirt a rugby shirt. The best ones will hire or partner with people who know the codes.
Why has the rugby shirt gotten so popular?
Rugby jerseys are naturally versatile, especially when they're not covered in sponsors and logos - smarter than a tee, less formal than a shirt. A core design pillar from the start was wearability. When you're investing in a shirt, I want it to become your go-to throw over.
There's been a well documented resurgence in preppy ivy league style over the last 12 months, and that's clearly an influence. But I'm equally fascinated by the adoption of rugby jerseys in hip hop culture and US streetwear - the silhouette is cool to a broad spectrum of people, a theme we go deeper on in our piece on the Palace x Polo Ralph Lauren rugby shirt.
What's strange is that rugby brands, and the global sportswear brands making official kit, have done almost nothing to excite current and former players until very recently. At stadiums for years, you've been far more likely to see fans wearing vintage jerseys than the official replica of the season. We've tapped directly into that - delivering stories grounded in the sport that appeal to many audiences.
Green and white hoops might remind you of Durham School, Newcastle Gosforth, or Zimbabwe if you're a player - the story behind our OD Jersey. But if you've never watched a game in your life, you'll still appreciate the colourway, the bold stripes, a slightly oversized fit, and a contrast woven collar.
Are there other parts of rugby kit that could infiltrate fashion?
Yes. We're already working on broadening to other pieces that feel very “rugby” but fit naturally into a wardrobe. Heavy duty cotton twill shorts are coming next summer.
JW Anderson is the current custodian of rugby within fashion - his woven pants are immediately recognisable to players around the world.
Do you think rugby will be the sport of the summer, from a fashion perspective?
Rugby might be the last great sporting culture fashion hasn't properly explored. But in a year with the Winter Olympics, a football World Cup, and a running and outdoor boom setting the benchmark, it will be hard to cut through.
My prediction is 2027, with the Rugby World Cup in Australia, as the peak moment. Louis Vuitton have already started positioning for it - the players they're aligning with are Dan Carter, Dupont, Suaalii. Not accidental choices. The best player in the world and the best Australian player. That's a signal.
What other sports have the potential to become the sport of the summer?
Outside of football, running, and outdoor - cricket, for sure. Another under-served sport with an enormous following. The uniform and history of the game have countless reference points. If it happened in golf and tennis, cricket can follow the same path.
You can read the GQ piece here.